The pulley is simple on a tiny angle and not 100% true tracking, so it squeeks across the belt. So again, to anyone searching, it is the mounts or more likely the slight off angle way the block is cast and/or milled. Its just a bad factory design, a bad angle. It sticks it to the smooth side of the pulley and drags it across. It gets worse because it prevents the belt from easily sliding across the bad angle any more. Put belt goo stop squeek (sticky that makes belt grip better) on it and it gets worse. I beleive that the belt is on an angle to the idler pulley, and it not tracking 100% straight across.ĭrip 1 drop of water on the OUTSIDE of the idler pulley and it stops for a minute. So, my educated guess after all these years is that the ALIGNMENT of pully or idler, or a mount, or the BLOCK holes and mount surface is / are milled wrong, from the factory. So I cleaned it off and tried water again. Then one day I was filling up radiator and noticed that the water on the belt stopped the squeek. Distributor, water pump, pullys, mounts, idler, belts, mounts / brackets, tried thinner syn oils, thicker oils, belt stop squeek, blah blah blah blah. Basically, over the years, I have thrown all sorts of parts at it. So anyways, im glad you said that about the wd40. Im surprised i remembered the password!!! Well, besides the fact that this post is like, uhmm, 8 years old. press your finger on the top of this sensor and you will fell the grinding going on inside if this is the issue. Not sure if we share the same problem as it seems yours went away. He was able to find the source with a stethoscope since the noise seemed to be amplified at the bell housing. They are $20 and all the AP stores around my house carry them. (since these 3.0's don't use a dist.) It's a plastic sensor that mounts with two bolt-head screws and a clip on/off wiring harness and connects just like a rotor cap would to a distributor shaft. it ended up being the cam position sensor that is mounted in the distributor hole at the back of the engine. The squeaking sound was intermittent for a long time and eventually got worse and was constant.Įven though it REALLY sounds like it's coming from the bell housing area. I had a mechanic friend take a look at the truck. Here is something you might want to take a look at. Please read above for all deatails, and here is the PM from guitodd. Īlthough I have not comfired this (my problem went away) they both seem to be very knowledgable and have done research, and both say this is a CPS shaft (cam position sensor shaft) problem.
#How to install camshaft synchronizer on 99 ford ranger 3.0 update#
UPDATE - Most possible cause is listed by ' JWKO ' and a PM by ' guitodd '. Re: 3.0 Engine noise / squeak / squeeling - 2000 Ford Ranger 3liter v6 Flex Fuel sqea Like I said the engine is in great condition and has been well maintained with low-loads and oil changes, also I just replaced the belt pullys, the noise is comming from the BACK not the front. ?Īfter searching the net all I found was people with similar problems but no answers, only offered the "belt squeek" solution. I dont know that much about Fords' 3.0 litre so I wanted to ask first - Is there anything I should know about them ? Spun bearings ? Bad Seals? Tranny Front-Pump problems ? Oil pump shaft ? Anything ? Etc. ALSO, the noise is comming from (it seems) the back high side of the engine, near the automatic transmission, and squeels in park, driving, idling, and revving. I recently changed to the oil and there is no metal in the oil. This is an intermediate squeek that usually only happens on cold starts (Even if it is warm outside) - After about 5 minutes when the engine warms up, it usually stops. OBVIOUSLY, I though "belts, tentioner, pully, etc." but no. Recently, it has developed a squeak/squeeling noise. I have had a 2000 Ford Ranger 3.0 litre flex fuel truck for about 8 months, it has been great and was well maintained. Hi all, I am new here, but not new to cars and trucks.
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